These instructions are for a Mile Marker Extreme Mount Winch Mount/Grill Guard (MM P/N: 50-50064) and Mile Marker Winch SI9500 (MM P/N: 76-50147) on a 2007 Nissan Titan LE Crew Cab 4x4. The winch mount should work on older model Titans. At the time this web page was constructed the winch mount for the Titan was not available on the Mile Marker web site. The Mile Marker instructions specify that the winch mount is for a 2004-2006 Titan. It does fit on the 2007 just fine.

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Before beginning this install ensure that you have allocated four to six hours of time. Of course, this time does not include any necessary trips to the hardware store.

It is not necessary to remove the front wheels or to jack up the vehicle. Given the amount of torque that has to be applied, jacking up the vehicle may present a danger.

Tools and supplies that will be necessary for this install

5/16" Allen Wrench
10 mm wrench and socket
12 mm wrench, socket and deep well socket
17 mm wrench and socket
19 mm wrench and socket
3/4" wrench and socket
1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" socket driver (to fit the sockets)
3" socket extension
Torque Wrench
Screwdriver with long shaft (at least 8"), medium tip - alternate: 8" socket extension with screwdriver bit
1/2" drill bit and stout electric drill
Safety glasses
Hearing protection
Utility knife (for opening shipping boxes)
Vice Grips
Needlenose pliers (offset works best)
Needlenose pliers, extra long
Portable shop light
Masking tape
Tape measure
Pony bar clamp (with at least 36" range)
Cheater pipe
Extra bolts, nuts, washers and lock washers
Shop vacuum

Step 1. Remove the Upper Grill

Open the hood.
There are seven plastic grill fasteners that you must disconnect. There are four on top of the grill and three on the bottom. To disconnect the fasteners turn the screw head 90 degrees to the left or right with a straight blade screw driver. Do not try to extract the fastener at this time. If you drop one and it doesn't make it to the ground don't worry about it at this time. It will be easier to find after the grill has been removed.

Here is a picture of the fastener that you will be disconnecting:

Top right grill fasteners (2)

Top left grill fasteners (2)

The next three fasteners can be accessed between the bumper and the grill. This is where the long screw driver is used.

Bottom right grill fastener (1)

Bottom center grill fastener

Bottom left grill fastener

In addition to the seven fasteners that were just disconnected, there are two on each side of the grill. You cannot disconnect these like the others. In fact, you can't even see the head of the fastener. The following picture shows the back end of the fastener sticking through the mounting bracket (driver side).

Since you can't get to the heads of these four fasteners you can either just yank on the grill until it comes free (it will) or you can try to squeeze the fastener from the back side and try to finesse it out. This will only work for the top two. I was unable to get to the bottom two from the back side.

Once the grill has been removed place it somewhere out of the way where it will not get damaged or scratched.

Extract the grill fasteners and place them with the grill.

Step 2. Remove the Skid Plate

Use the 10 mm socket to remove two bolts at the back of the skid plate

Use the 5/16" allen wrench to remove the four bolts (two on each side) at the front of the skid plate. It may be necessary to use the cheater pipe at this time.

The skid plate is not heavy but you could hurt your head if it came down on you. Prop up one side of the skid plate with your knee while removing the bolts from the other side.

Step 3. Remove the Bumper

If you think you can get away without removing the bumper, think again.

Start by disconnecting the bumper from the outboard braces using a 12 mm socket. These can be accessed through the wheel well.

The bumper can eventually be removed by disconnecting the bumper from the brace without disconnecting the brace from the frame. But the removal is easier if the brace is also disconnected from the frame. To reinstall the bumper you'll have to loosen the brace from the frame. So you might as well loosen it from the frame or just remove it altogether.

While still under the vehicle disconnect the fog lights.

Here is a picture of the fog light disconnected:

Disconnect the bumper from the frame using a deep well 12mm socket or a 12mm wrench.

Now remove the four bolts on the top of the bumper (two each side) using a 12mm socket and the 3" extension.

Lift the bumper up off of the support bracket and move it forward. It should come free without a lot of effort. It isn't very heavy so you don't need any help yet. Avoid jarring the bumper or you might break the fog light bulbs. Set the bumper in a safe location.

Replace the upper bolts so you don't lose them.

Step 4. Remove the Tow Hooks and Skid Plate Bracket

Using a 17mm socket remove the four bolts (two each side) that hold the tow hooks and (if present) skid plate bracket to the frame.

This is what you should have once all four bolts have been removed

Now you'll start to put everything back together.

Step 5. Mount Upper Brackets

The upper brackets attach to the back of the crossbeam that the bumper attaches to. Because the crossbeam is a box (four sides) Mile Marker had to be a bit creative in getting a nut inside of the frame. For this step you will be using the nut that is welded to the metal rod.

This is the hole on the drivers side that the nut has to be fished through

Start out by bending the rod like this. It will make it easier to thread the bolt into the nut.

Insert the 1-1/4" bolt, flat washer and lock washer into the upper bracket and through the hole in the back side of the crossbeam. Fish the nut through the hole in the crossbeam and thread the bolt into the nut.

Tighten the bolts but be careful of the coolant lines

Once the bolts have been tightened either cut off the rods or bend them out of the way.

Step 6. Mount Lower Brackets

Here is where things start to get interesting. Mile Marker did not provide new bolts for attaching the lower brackets to the frame. The existing bolts are long enough to get threaded into the existing nuts that are welded to the inside the frame. But the bolts may not be long enough to have enough threads in the nut given the amount of torque that is to be applied. Consider one of these three options:
1. Use the existing bolts
2. Don't reinstall the tow hooks
3. Buy new bolts that are longer

If you choose option one you are likely to strip the nuts (like I did). This is bad. Here is a picture of the bolt inside the crossbeam.

Here is a picture of the formerly welded nut that was on the inside of the crossbeam. I managed to remove the nut by over-torquing it and breaking it free. In the process I destroyed the bolt and the nut.

If you're lucky you will only break the nuts in the crossbeam. If you break the nuts inside the frame I think you are screwed. You can't get to them. I removed the nut in the crossbeam (once I broke it off) and replaced it with a regular nut. I learned my lesson and used a longer bolt on the other side and there were no further problems.

By not installing the tow hooks the existing bolts should be plenty long. But if you still want your tow hooks (like I did) then you'll have to go with option 3.

The old bolt is on the left and the new one on the right. These are metric bolts. The size is M12x70 with a 1.25 pitch on the threads. The new bolt can be longer than you think. There is a hole above the welded nut that the bolt can protrude up into.

The winch mount brackets are pictured here. The driver side bracket is on the right.

In case you forgot, here is how the winch mount bracket, tow hook and skid plate bracket are to be attached. The picture is from the front of the vehicle taken through the hole in the bumper.

Begin by placing the lower winch mount bracket against the crossmember and insert the two sets of bolts, washers and lock washers to the face of the crossbeam. Do not tighten the bolts at this time.

Note that the bracket will go to the outside of the plate that is sticking out of the crossmember.

Insert the bottom bolts into the frame brackets and finger tighten all four bolts on each frame bracket. Check the distance between the left and right lower frame brackets at the end of the brackets (front of the vehicle). The distance must be at least 31 3/4".

Before completing this step consider skipping ahead to step 7 and then coming back to this point.

If the distance is OK then tighten the bottom bolts to 87 ft/lbs (specification according to Mile Marker), back bolt first, then front bolt. I tightened mine to about 80 ft/lbs. I'll go back and tighten them a bit more later. Consider placing an end wrench on the nut that is inside the crossbeam. By doing so you may reduce the stress on the welds and keep it from breaking off. Unfortunately, you can't reach the nuts on the inside of the frame itself.

Tighten the bolts on the face of the crossbeam to 51 ft/lbs (specification according to Mile Marker).

This is how things should look at this point.

Step 7. Test Winch Mount Brackets

Place the Winch Mount/Grill Guard on and between the lower winch mount brackets. Check to see if the two bolt holes on each side match up. If the bolt holes do not match up use the pony clamp to draw the brackets closer together until the bolt holes are close enough. The bolt holes on mine where sufficiently tight (not large enough) that I could not slide the bolts in. I had to screw them in.

In this picture the bolt holes are not aligned.

If the bolt holes cannot be aligned using the pony clamp then loosen the bolts on the frame brackets, line up the bolts then retighten the frame bracket bolts.

Remove the Winch Mount/Grill Guard from the frame brackets and place it in a location where it will not fall over.

Step 8. Install the bumper

Installing the bumper is the reverse of removing it. If the outer braces (accessed through the wheel wells) have not been loosened at the frame or removed altogether you should take care of that now. Installing the bumper is much easier without the braces getting in the way.

The lower frame brackets will extend through the tow hook holes in the bumper. The upper winch mount brackets will extend through the grill in the bumper.

Don't forget to reconnect the fog lights and the left and right bumper braces.

Step 8. Install the Upper Grill

(You may want to skip this step until after the winch can be placed in the winch bracket. By waiting to install the grill it will be easier to route the winch power cables to the battery.)

There are 11 fasteners that must be reattached to the grill guard. The fasteners do not go on the truck, they go in these holes in the grill guard.

To attach the fastener to the grill guard use a set of pliers to squeeze the fastener. Place the head of the fastener through the hole and then twist the fastener into the bracket. The head must protrude out the other side.

When the fastener has been correctly installed it will look like this

Place the grill on the truck and press it into place. This should not take much effort and you should hear a click when the fasteners are seated. Gently tug on the grill to ensure that all the fasteners are attached.

Step 9. Install the Winch Mount/Grill Guard

Prepare the bolts, flat washers, lock washers and nuts that are used to secure the Winch Mount/Grill Guard to the lower frame brackets. Be sure these are in easy reach. The Winch Mount/Grill Guard will not balance on the lower frame brackets. So you can't put it in place and then walk away to get the hardware.

Similar to step 7 place the Winch Mount/Grill Guard on top of and in between the lower frame brackets. Line up the bolt holes and install the bolts with the head of the bolt on top.

Check the gap between the Winch Mount/Grill Guard and the bumper. The gap should be uniform from top to bottom and on both sides.

If the gap is uneven consider using a washer as a shim.

Once you are satisfied with the alignment of the Winch Mount/Grill Guard tighten the bolts to 110 ft/lbs using a 3/4" socket and 3/4" end wrench.

Consider placing a piece of masking tape on the bumper to avoid scratching the bumper with the torque wrench.

Step 10. Attach the Upper Mounting Brackets

There is no bolt hole in the Winch Mount/Grill Guard for the upper bracket. You will have to drill a hole.

Due to the thickness and hardness of the Winch Mount/Grill Guard you will need a stout electric drill and a 1/2" drill bit that is up to the task.

Before starting put on your safety glasses and hearing protection.

Drill a hole from the bottom using the hole in the upper bracket as a guide. The top of the bolt will not interfere with the Mile Marker SI9500 winch so you don't need to worry about where it is going. But it wouldn't hurt to place your winch into the winch bracket to make sure everything lines up.

It will take a while to drill the hole. Let your drill cool down if it starts to get too warm.

Once both holes have been drilled insert the last two sets of bolts, flat washers, lock washers and nuts and tighten to 110 ft/lbs.

Step 11. Install the Skid Plate

The front of the skid plate may contact the bottom of the Winch Mount/Grill Guard. If this is the case you will have to place a spacer between the skid plate and the front skid plate mounting bracket to make the skid plate clear the Winch Mount/Grill Guard.

Step 12. Install the Winch

Prepare the winch by attaching any wires that are necessary. On mine the wires were already attached and ready to go. However, I changed the direction of one the cables that goes to the battery. By reorienting it the route the cable took just looked better.

Place the mounting nuts into their respective recepticles on the bottom of the winch. It is easier to put these in place before the winch has been placed in the winch bracket.

Place the winch into the winch bracket.

Insert all four bolts into the nuts without tightening them.

Once all four bolts have been inserted proceed with tightening all four to 35 ft/lbs.

Attach the fairlead to the front of the winch bracket. The fit between the winch bracket and the winch is very close. You may have to loosen the winch to get enough room to move the nut into place.

Step 12. Connect the Winch to the Battery

Find the positive and negative battery cables. You can't miss these. The are red and black and about three feet long.

Snake the battery cables through the lower grill and then then up towards the battery. Make sure the cables do not interfere with existing objects.

I went to the local auto parts store looking for a clean solution to attaching the winch battery cables to the battery. Nothing I found would provide a nice, clean solution. In the end I went to the hardware store and bought a set of replacement metric bolts to match the size of the existing bolts on the terminals except the new ones were longer. I also bought additional nuts to fit the bolts.

Here is how I attached the battery cables

The positive cable is attached to the terminal using a nut as a spacer.

My truck after the install